Having visited San Cristobal before we really wanted to visit this Tzoltzil town just outside the city as it seems to get a lot of press but we didn’t have time to visit last time we were here. So we hired bikes and rode into the beautiful hills. The first thing I noticed, while mostly walking my bike up the steep hills, was the lush countryside that is filled with such peaceful and tranquil sights. Goats being led up country paths, two little girls building a tent in the field while their mother worked, the natural sun light across fertile crops and sweeping green hills full of trees and grass.





It made me realise that even though Chiapas is one of the poorest states in Mexico it is rich in so many other ways.

















We arrived after about an hour into the village Chamula to be greeted at the road by a little boy offering to give us a tour. At first we were not sure as we thought maybe of just walking around and taking in the vibe but after walking into the main market place, full of thousands of ethnic clothes, jewellery and children keen to get a spare peso from our pockets we realized that it would actually be to our benefit to have a local by our side. So 12 year old Marcelino became our guide and he actually turned out to be quite knowledgeable and projected intelligently what he knew.






The main church of the town is the main draw here and charges tourists to enter.
It has pine needles all over the floor, hundreds of lit candles and worshippers drinking fizzy drinks (Lucky Coca Cola!) to usurp evil spirits. He also told us that chickens and eggs are used over people who are ill to help remove the illness. The Tzoltzil people also don’t eat goat because of some link to the building of the church. The church is not however used for weddings as couples marry in their homes. The price of the bride depending on how well she can cook, clean and make clothes to sell. The dowry can range from 30.000 pesos (1500 pounds) to nothing if she has no parents. (Rodrigo said that I would be very cheap to marry!!!!.) Polygamy is also active here and accepted by the Mexican government only within the indigenous communities. Often the wealthier men have 4 wives and rotates them each night.

Marcelino then took us to see another older church around the corner which has a grave yard covered in different coloured crosses. He explained that black represented if the person has died old, green for the young and blue for if they were an important person within the community.

The town and culture is fascinating but also slightly oppressive. I was happy to visit and curious to know more but in the end also happy to take the easy down hill cycle ride back to San Cristobal. I really live this city and would love to stay here to work a little longer. It’s full of really creative honest people who genuinely are trying to make Chiapas a better place. We’ve seen lots of organic cafes using only local produce, community shops selling hand made paper and many other local made crafts. It also has a better tolerance and understanding of indigenous communities here than in the rest of Mexico where often they are victims of fierce racism and misunderstanding. I think here in may ways for me is the heart of Mexico and what I hoped to experience and see when coming to this country. A beautiful state and a highly recommended place to visit.