Amaneciendo en Montebello

Despues de la noche más angustiante del viaje. Amanecimo solos en Montebello, su laguna principal, nos desperto. Las fotos muestran la belleza del paisaje y el video el eco del saxofon rebotando en las montañas.

Na Bolom

Aunque mi amigo Ruy Guka (por cierto visiten su blog) diga lo contrario. Sin duda Na Bolom, la casa del jaguar en tzoltzil, es un lugar que vale la pena visitar. Siempre y cuando su guia sea Pepe Santiago, el explica todo re bien, sobre la cultura lacandona y el apoyo que genera este lugar al acomunidad indigena.

Ademas que ha estado gente de mucha importancia a nivel cultural en la casa y en lo sproyectos. Como Elena Poniatowska, Octavio Paz, Monsivais, Rulfo, Shakira (no mamen!, lo peor es que ma la vendio como wow) y mi queridisimo Jose Alfredo Jimenez.

La sala de la biblioteca y tertulia vespertina de estos personajes con los dueños (Franz Blom), fue donde nos tomamos la foto.

San Cristobal de las Casas

Este lugar desde que lo conoci, me encanto, algo tiene conmigo, respondemos muy bien el uno al otro. Esta a 85 km al este de Tuxtla, puedes llegar en aproximadamente 35 a 40 minutos desde ahi.

Nuestro viaje fue de aproximadamente 13 horas, si fatal (casi como ir sentado de rodillas a ver a la virgen Guadalupana el 12 de diciembre). Pero era la unica forma de hacerlo, sin tomar un avion que es prioridad para nosotros. La regla de NO aviones es por hacer el viaje mas sustentable, verde, ecologico, no tenia ni idea que ibamos a pasar por estas procesiones . De haber sabido hubiera tomado la bandera de arriba el petroleo y las compañias de autos, total, el dinero esta en ese sector. De las 10 empresas mas ricas del mundo; 8 tiene que ver con petroleo, segun Forbes. A seguir usando cochecitos!

Gracias al levantamiento Zapatista de hace 15 años y medio, esta ciudad (es raro decirle ciudad a un lugar que no tiene hermosos pàisajes de edificios, millones de personas con prisa, trafico en las calles, vendedores en cada esquina, transporte publico donde la gente va como sardina) empezo a desarrollarse ya que los ojos del mundo voltearon a verla.

Para mi, una ciudad que es un Mexico distinto, donde puedes escuchar tzoltzil hablado en cada calle, castellano, italiano, aleman, el imperialista inglés y otros cuantos mas. La diversidad es algo presente, palpable, parte esencial del San Cristobal del nuevo siglo.

Despues de haber visitado San Juan Chamula (aqui esta el post de Tasha), llegamos a trabajar a la Casa del Pan. Un restaurante, cine, escuela de español y redaccion, cafe, panaderia y tienda de productos organicos. Un lugar donde producen todos sus alimentos organicamente, en las hortalizas y en sus hornos. Un deleite el buffet, definitivamente si estan en San Cristobal vayan. Les dejo memorables fotos de nuestro trabajo en la granja.

Aqui dejo varias fotos, primero nuestro querido Cerrito se llama Salvador de 23 años de edad y fue nuestro maestro.
Segundo Esteban que es su asistente y tambien nos enseño.
La siguiente es una foto de la granja. La ultima es una foto de Tasha con Catherine, limpiando la cosecha.

A Tzoltzil village in Chiapas - San Juan Chamula

Having visited San Cristobal before we really wanted to visit this Tzoltzil town just outside the city as it seems to get a lot of press but we didn’t have time to visit last time we were here. So we hired bikes and rode into the beautiful hills. The first thing I noticed, while mostly walking my bike up the steep hills, was the lush countryside that is filled with such peaceful and tranquil sights. Goats being led up country paths, two little girls building a tent in the field while their mother worked, the natural sun light across fertile crops and sweeping green hills full of trees and grass.





It made me realise that even though Chiapas is one of the poorest states in Mexico it is rich in so many other ways.

















We arrived after about an hour into the village Chamula to be greeted at the road by a little boy offering to give us a tour. At first we were not sure as we thought maybe of just walking around and taking in the vibe but after walking into the main market place, full of thousands of ethnic clothes, jewellery and children keen to get a spare peso from our pockets we realized that it would actually be to our benefit to have a local by our side. So 12 year old Marcelino became our guide and he actually turned out to be quite knowledgeable and projected intelligently what he knew.






The main church of the town is the main draw here and charges tourists to enter.
It has pine needles all over the floor, hundreds of lit candles and worshippers drinking fizzy drinks (Lucky Coca Cola!) to usurp evil spirits. He also told us that chickens and eggs are used over people who are ill to help remove the illness. The Tzoltzil people also don’t eat goat because of some link to the building of the church. The church is not however used for weddings as couples marry in their homes. The price of the bride depending on how well she can cook, clean and make clothes to sell. The dowry can range from 30.000 pesos (1500 pounds) to nothing if she has no parents. (Rodrigo said that I would be very cheap to marry!!!!.) Polygamy is also active here and accepted by the Mexican government only within the indigenous communities. Often the wealthier men have 4 wives and rotates them each night.

Marcelino then took us to see another older church around the corner which has a grave yard covered in different coloured crosses. He explained that black represented if the person has died old, green for the young and blue for if they were an important person within the community.

The town and culture is fascinating but also slightly oppressive. I was happy to visit and curious to know more but in the end also happy to take the easy down hill cycle ride back to San Cristobal. I really live this city and would love to stay here to work a little longer. It’s full of really creative honest people who genuinely are trying to make Chiapas a better place. We’ve seen lots of organic cafes using only local produce, community shops selling hand made paper and many other local made crafts. It also has a better tolerance and understanding of indigenous communities here than in the rest of Mexico where often they are victims of fierce racism and misunderstanding. I think here in may ways for me is the heart of Mexico and what I hoped to experience and see when coming to this country. A beautiful state and a highly recommended place to visit.